Asador de Santiago

A SMART doorway off the main street by the old hospital of Spain's most beautiful Renaissance gem is the start of a delightful dining experience. Impossibly stylish for a provincial town so far from the main tourist resorts, the Asador de Santiago hits the spot on many levels.

Beautifully decorated and lit, the contemporary décor is the perfect complement to the adventurous, yet traditional cuisine. This has much to do with its chef Anselmo Juarez, 28, from Ubeda, who has learnt his trade around Spain at Tragabuches in Ronda and El Celler de Can Roca in Girona.

Practically unknown even within its own province, this should go down as one of the finds of the region. “As far as the critics are concerned Jaen does not exist,” says Anselmo. “They hardly ever bother to come here and think all we eat is pork.” How wrong could they be?