El Tesoro

UP, up and away, as far as you can climb into the hills above the Straits of Gibraltar - avoiding potholes, the trademark brown retinto cows of the region and an army camp - and you finally come to a worn, hand-carved wooden sign saying 'Threasure'.

They mean treasure – Tesoro – and this really is the treasure at the end of the rainbow. With a 180-degree view across the straits to Morocco and inland to the rugged peaks of the Alcornocales national park, they could probably get away with serving egg and chips and the punters would be happy.

But Jesus Silva and his lovely Colombian wife Juana Miranda aren't like that. Over the last five years they have turned this ramshackle smallholding into one of the most charming restaurants of southern Spain.