La Castilleria

BRING on the summer! The warm sea air floating inland towards the rolling bull-rearing plains of inland Cadiz.

But before you reach the sun parched slopes en route between Vejer and Medina Sidonia you find this hidden valley, a green oasis thanks to an ancient Roman aqueduct that has watered it for centuries. It's easy to miss, the small turnoff to the hamlet of Santa Lucia between the La Muela and Medina Sidonia roads.

The ancient track winds up into the hills, past a local bar and a series of stylish homes until you eventually find a row of steps and a small sign for Castilleria. Up here in a shady nook you will find perhaps one of Spain's most alluring outdoor restaurants.

Just a dozen or so tables scattered under a copse of pine, palm and oak trees, and an assault of aromas from honeysuckle, jasmine, vines and bougainvillea.